’Vive le difference’ is my French lesson

9:58am Friday 4th July 2008

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IT was a bit of an eye-opener to say the least. The highlight of a friend’s stag party in Paris last weekend saw a group of hardened racegoers, including your correspondent, take a trip to the Hippodrome de Saint-Cloud in the west of the city.

As well as the chance to while away some hours in a comfortable suburb, the meeting also provided the Group 1 Grand Prix de Saint-Cloud – where some of Europe’s finest older horses went toe-to-toe at the Derby distance of one mile, four furlongs (or 2,400 metres if you’re on the continent).

The race was a thrilling affair, with the Richard Hughes-ridden Youmzain, a horse with a reputation for finishing second in the big events, finally fulfilling his potential and edging out Aidan O’Brien’s Soldier Of Fortune and Richard Gibson’s Doctor Dino.

There was more. Punters got another treat in the very next race – the Prix de Malleret – when favourite Treat Gently took the Group 2 contest for fillies.

What was most surprising, however, was not the quality of racing. Even the laziest of us can amble down to Knavesmire in August to witness just as good a contest in the Juddmonte International.

No, what really struck me about French racing was the completely different culture.

Some things were easily explained. It is astonishingly cheap. Our party was waved through for free last Sunday, a meeting which celebrated the country’s national rugby leagues.

But even if we had been forced to stump up, the top price was still only a measly four euros, and that’s on one of the track’s top days.

There’s no club class. The racecard comes free of charge.

Contrast this with the Ebor Festival, where entry on any of the four days this year will cost you a princely £50 in the County Stand.

Before you get out your placards and storm off down Knavesmire Road, there is a reason why the French have it so good.

While York Racecourse effectively funds itself, relying on gate admissions to pump back into racing and its facilities, Hippodrome de Saint-Cloud is subsidised by the country’s racing governing body, France Galop.

And if you like dealing with a bookie in the betting rings, you’ll be out of luck in Saint-Cloud. There’s not a tic-tac man in sight. That’s because wagers are taken on the pari-mutuel (PMU).

Similar to our tote, the PMU’s activity is controlled by the French Government, under the supervision of their agriculture and finance departments.

Without the hustle and bustle of the ring, it will come as no surprise to learn that even a Group 1 race takes place in a rather more sedate environment.

Contrast that with York where, ten minutes before the off, the front of the stands are crammed with punters all looking to take advantage of that stray fraction.

Speaking of attendances, the crowd last Sunday at Saint-Cloud was barely any larger than that of an end-of-season October weekday on Knavesmire. But perhaps the biggest style difference between Britain and France is in the culture of its spectators.

In Britain, racing – particularly at big festivals such as the Ebor and Royal Ascot – is not just a place to watch thoroughbreds, it’s a place to be seen. Fashionistas drool over new dresses, hats and sharp suits, while as many people remain sipping Pimms and Champagne in the bars as watch the action. In France, they almost all watch the racing. And there’s not an Armani suit in sight.

It’s a difference that’s readily admitted by York racecourse’s marketing manager James Brennan.

“We welcome racegoers of all views,” he said. “Some racegoers can still be celebrating the last win and will miss the next one. That’s part of the day.

“The focus on the horses can be fairly intense at York and we’re content that people also catch up with friends.”

For the purists, tracks like Saint-Cloud offer a different change of pace. But there’s still no doubt. For big race action, York – and top British courses in general – are still the Kings.